ESG Marbling
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How Marbling Is Done

Paints are dropped onto a thickened water solution, where surface tension makes them float and spread without blending together. They are raked and combed into patterns with various tools. The design is then transferred onto paper, fabric, or other material which has been prepared with a mordant to makes the pigments adhere properly.
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Each piece requires more than a dozen steps to create, and each design is one of a kind. Results hinge on many factors, including the skill of the artisan, the texture of the material marbled upon, and the temperature and consistency of the marbling bath. Much of the pleasure of marbling comes from its unpredictable nature - itʼs always exciting to see what emerges from the marbling bath!

I use a variety of techniques in my work: 
  • My "Duet" Scarves are marbled with different designs on each side created in the same color scheme, creating a dynamic interplay of contrast and harmony.
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  • Over Marbling - The surface is marbled multiple times, layering the designs and creating a sense of depth.​​


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  • Predyeing - Dyeing the fabric before marbling yields more intense tones, and also creates color shifts like the classic "yellow plus blue make green," seen below.
  • Monochrome - These pieces are also dyed before marbling, and I build upon the color of the dye to create textural patterns in a single color.
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  • Scottish Fold - My own twist on a classic marbling pattern, Spanish Wave. This technique makes it look like the fabric is pleated.


Marbling, Step by Step

First the fabric is gently washed to remove any surface treatments, and hung to dry. Then it is soaked in an alum solution to make the fibers receptive to the pigments, and again hung to dry.

Water is mixed with a plant fiber to form a gelatinous liquid, called "size," on which the marbling patterns are created. The size is poured into the marbling tray and left to cure. Bubbles are removed to create a clean surface to work on.

Paint colors are mixed, and thinned to the proper consistency to float and spread properly on the size.

Various methods can be used to apply the colors to the the size (L), and different tools, often handmade by the artist, are used to work them into patterns (R).

The color is applied layer by layer in what is known as the stone pattern.

The organic stone pattern can itself be the final design, or can be worked with tools into one of a wide range of precisely formed patterns.

The fabric is lowered onto the design, which adheres to it immediately. Then it is rinsed in water and hung to dry.

For my "Duet" scarves, which are marbled on both sides, the entire process is repeated starting with the alum soak.
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The piece is heat set to make it colorfast and hand washable. Then it gets a final gentle wash to remove any remaining size and excess pigment, and is ironed again.
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Copyright 2014-2020 Ellen Sue Gordon
www.ellensue.com
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